Key Takeaways
- Test the pump twice a year by slowly filling the pit with a bucket of water.
- Make sure the float moves freely and the discharge line outside isn't blocked or frozen.
- Most pumps last about 7 to 10 years; a battery backup covers power outages during storms.
- Send the discharge outside, away from the foundation, not into a floor drain or the sewer.
Why Spring Is the Test
In Connecticut, late winter and early spring bring snowmelt on top of heavy rain while the ground is still frozen or saturated. Groundwater rises around the foundation and the sump pit fills, sometimes for days. Homes on low-lying streets or near brooks see it first, but plenty of Hamden basements that stay dry all summer depend on the pump every March to avoid a wet basement.
The 10-Minute Check
- Check the power. The pump should be plugged into a working outlet, ideally its own. If it's on a GFCI outlet, make sure it hasn't tripped.
- Look in the pit. Clear out gravel, silt and debris that could jam the float or block the intake screen.
- Do the bucket test. Slowly pour a bucket or two of water into the pit. The pump should start on its own, empty the pit, and shut off.
- Watch the float. It should rise and fall freely without catching on the pit wall or the power cord.
- Listen. Grinding, rattling or a motor that hums without pumping are signs of a failing pump or a jammed impeller.
- Check the check valve. When the pump shuts off, water shouldn't rush back into the pit. If it does, the check valve has failed and the pump is working twice as hard.
- Follow the discharge line outside. It should be clear, not crushed or frozen, and should release water well away from the foundation.
- Test the backup. If you have a battery backup pump, unplug the main pump and run the bucket test again. Check the battery's age.
Unplug the pump before reaching into the pit for any reason.
Signs Your Pump Needs Attention
| What you notice | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Pump doesn't start in the bucket test | Stuck float, failed switch or dead motor |
| Runs constantly, even in dry weather | Stuck float, failed check valve or high water table |
| Turns on and off every few seconds | Failed check valve or float set too tight |
| Hums but doesn't pump | Jammed impeller or failing motor |
| Pumps, but the pit refills from the pipe | Failed check valve |
| Water around the pit but the pump works | Pump too small, or water entering elsewhere |
Where the Water Should Go
The discharge line should carry water at least several feet from the house, ideally to a spot that slopes away. Water dumped right next to the foundation just soaks back in and gets pumped again. In winter, a discharge line that freezes shut can leave the pump with nowhere to send water.
Many towns don't allow sump pumps to drain into the sanitary sewer, and connecting one to a floor drain adds groundwater to the sewer system. Send it outside.
Battery Backups
The storms that fill the pit are the same storms that knock out the power. A battery backup sump pump sits in the same pit and takes over when the main pump or the power fails. Batteries generally need replacing every few years, so check the date.
If your basement is finished, a backup pump and a water alarm in the pit are cheap insurance compared to new carpet and drywall.
When to Replace the Pump
Most sump pumps last roughly 7 to 10 years, less if they run often. If yours is in that range, has failed the bucket test, or you can't remember when it was installed, plan a sump pump replacement before spring rather than during a storm. Our sump pump repair team replaces pumps, check valves and discharge lines and installs battery backups.
Water coming up through the floor drain instead of the pit is a different problem: see why your basement floor drain backs up.
